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Aix en Provence, oh how it’s been etched into my soul. They call it “Cezanne’s city,” you know. Look down, and you’ll spot the “Steps of Cezanne” beckoning you towards his artistic haunts. But beware, my friends, for if you become consumed with following those little emblems, you may pass by the real treasures of this enchanting place. It would take volumes to fully capture the essence of this city, to truly translate its history. Founded in the ancient year of 123 BC, Aix en Provence has risen like a phoenix over hot springs, an oasis of knowledge and beauty nestled in the heart of the 13th department of France.

Now, it must be said, my initial encounter with this city was far from love at first sight. Aix, dear reader, can be described as scruffy, unpolished. It may take a while for its charm to seep into your very being. The renowned boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, is lined with majestic trees providing shade, but alas, it is also tainted by tourist traps and banks. The old town, or “vieux ville,” is a labyrinth of bustling streets, bursting with shops and eateries. It took weeks of wandering these avenues, getting lost in its embrace, to truly understand its essence. We stumbled upon many restaurants, some divine, others disappointing. The markets, oh the markets, they lure you in with their enticing array of goods. But beware, for there are sly vendors who prey on unsuspecting tourists. It takes time to discern the authentic from the counterfeit.

As we stand on the precipice of bidding adieu to Aix-en-Provence, our hearts grow heavy with sorrow. We have been graced with unforgettable experiences, worth sharing with all those who follow in our footsteps. Allow me to offer you a glimpse into our favorites:

Boulangerie: Ah, the quandary of choosing the finest among countless virtuosos. Yet, Farinoman Fou reigns supreme in my eyes. Their artisanal breads, brimming with rustic splendor, leave one spellbound. Allow me to introduce you to two masterpieces, Maître Goji (delicately infused with goji berries and raisins) and Choco Souris (a smile-inducing creation of chocolate perfection).

Coffee: Ah, the elixir of life. In France, one may find solace in a shot of espresso, but tread with caution when venturing into milky realms, such as the “grande creme.” The chances of receiving a weak and tepid brew are far too high. Fear not, for two sanctuaries of consistency exist, namely La Brulerie and Italy Coffee Shop.

Creperie: Ladies and gentlemen, prepare yourselves for a taste bud symphony, orchestrated by the magnificent Delphine at Crêpes Cidres and Companie. Hailing from the gastronomic wonderland of Brittany, Delphine spares no expense in sourcing authentic ingredients for her delectable creations. Each crepe is a testament to her mastery, crafted with love and served piping hot. And let us not overlook the heavenly mini Madeleines and an espresso that never falters. Do not hesitate, dear reader, pay her a visit!

Doors: Oh, the allure of the unknown, concealed behind intricately carved doors of timeless beauty. Aix enchants us with its age-old architecture, inviting us to ponder the stories that lie behind each threshold.

Fountains: In this city constructed atop effervescent hot springs, fountains flow abundantly, paying homage to a bygone era. These elegant masterpieces adorn the main streets, a gentle reminder of Aix’s captivating past.

Gelato: My husband, bless his soul, embarked on a valiant quest to uncover the finest gelaterias. And lo and behold, our journey led us to Amorino, nestled at the end of the legendary Cours Mirabeau. Each spoonful of their gelato is worth its weight in gold. And dare I mention their chocolate, an indulgence that lingers long after its savored.

Market: In Aix-en-Provence, we are blessed with a market for every single day. Our hearts gravitated towards Place de Richelme, where hardworking vendors dazzle visitors with their wares. But take heed, my friends, for not all that glitters is gold.

Restaurants: Aix, oh Aix, a melting pot of academia and tourism. A marriage that does not always yield fine dining experiences. Fear not, for we have embarked on a gastronomic journey and discovered some true gems:

• Le Millefeuille: A petite gem, with exquisite decor and a daily-changing menu.
• L’Epicurien Restaurant: A mere 7-10 tables, boasting a weekly-changing menu that dances upon the palate.
• La Cave d-Yves: A cozy wine bar, tantalizing the senses with a tapas-style menu and an extraordinary sommelier.
• Carton Rouge: A minuscule haven, where flavors burst forth from a daily menu, cooked to perfection. Be sure to make a reservation.
• Tapas Cafe: Located in Place des Augustins, it may not catch your eye at first glance. But fear not, for the flavors of authentic Spanish Tapas await, along with delightful Mojitos to wash them down.
• Poivre d’Ane: A bright and cozy setting, offering prix-fixe menus that will transport you to culinary bliss. Reservations are a must.

Route de Cezanne: Step outside the bustling city center, and a world of rural beauty awaits. Follow the meandering road to Mont St Victore, as vineyards greet you with open arms. Whether a leisurely bike ride or an enchanting drive, this journey is one not to be missed.

Special events:

• The Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur hosts a Scandinavian Christmas concert, in honor of the beloved Santa Lucia.
• Église Saint Jean de Malte presents “Chœurs au Diapason” by the esteemed Ordre de Malte, a harmonious journey through sacred and operatic compositions.
• The Muse Granet awaits, showcasing treasures that tickle the artistic soul.

In the end, dear reader, Aix en Provence reveals its treasures to those who seek with open hearts. Let my words guide you, but do not be bound by them. Set forth on your own path, discover your own favorites, and create a tapestry of memories that shall forever bind you to this extraordinary city.

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Ihab Salloum