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Why Sand Boas? The answer is simple: they are fascinating creatures with unique characteristics and personalities. There are numerous species, subspecies, and varieties of sand boas, each offering its own allure. These snakes are small, easy to care for, and breeding them is relatively straightforward. In fact, it’s so effortless that you could easily amass a large collection.

Among the various sand boas I keep, my focus lies on the European and central Asian ones. These species have expansive ranges, resulting in significant diversity even within subspecies. Each individual sand boa possesses distinct qualities that set it apart from others. The plethora of patterns they exhibit captivates me, and whenever I come across an exceptionally different sand boa, I am compelled to add it to my collection.

Eryx jaculus is undoubtedly one of my personal favorites. There are three subspecies native to southern Europe and parts of northern Africa. Unfortunately, due to trade restrictions, this species has not gained popularity in the pet snake community. Eryx jaculus jaculus, also known as the javelin sand boa, is the most commonly available subspecies. Many captives originate from Egyptian and Jordanian bloodlines. It grows slightly larger and has a more robust build compared to the other two subspecies. While it can be slightly more aggressive, captive-bred specimens can be tamed and handled with ease.

The Turkish sand boa, Eryx jaculus turcicus, primarily inhabits Turkey and Syria. It is smaller than Eryx jaculus jaculus and rarely found in the pet trade. Nevertheless, there are a few dedicated breeders working with this subspecies, and one can hope for it to become more prevalent.

Eryx jaculus familiaris, also known as the Bulgarian sand boa, is the most slender of the Eryx jaculus subspecies. It is also the most docile and possesses an intricate pattern, making it perhaps the most desirable to pet enthusiasts. Unfortunately, it is exceptionally rare in captivity and its population in the wild is rapidly declining. Currently, I am working with a group of six specimens with the hopes of successfully reproducing them in 2005.

Another species I am passionate about is Eryx miliaris, which is divided into two subspecies: Eryx miliaris miliaris, or the brown Russian sand boa, and Eryx miliaris nogaiorum, the black Russian sand boa. Through selective breeding, my goal is to produce various variations of these subspecies. My primary project involves creating a captive-bred line of the “super black” Russian sand boa. This natural form of Eryx miliaris nogaiorum is almost entirely jet black, with only a few white and gray speckles running along its sides. Although Russian sand boas, both subspecies, are brought into Europe in limited numbers every few years, wild-caught adults do not make the best pets due to their bland colors. However, I believe that captive-bred babies will be more appealing, encouraging more hobbyists to keep this species.

Eryx tataricus, divided into three subspecies, is the second largest species of sand boa. Females can reach lengths of up to 36 inches (91 cm). I have found this species to be remarkably easy to care for. They are generally docile and readily accept thawed rodents as their food source.

Although this species is seldom seen in captivity, its attractiveness and amiable nature make me confident that it will gain popularity and become more readily available in the future. In particular, Eryx tataricus speciosus, the spotted sand boa, is highly sought after by many enthusiasts. I currently have a long waiting list of people interested in acquiring this subspecies, despite its relatively high prices due to limited supply and high demand.

When it comes to acclimating wild-caught snakes to captive conditions, it’s important to note that it is now illegal to capture wild Eryx jaculus. Consequently, this section primarily pertains to Eryx miliaris and Eryx tataricus. There are several procedures I follow when dealing with wild-caught snakes. Here is a step-by-step guide to acclimating them:

1. Start by addressing external parasites, although sand boas rarely carry any mites or ticks. Taking a precautionary approach, I give them a bath and remove any potential parasites. There are various products available for this purpose, but I prefer one commonly used for fleas on cats and dogs.

2. Next, I focus on getting the snake to eat. The first couple of meals should be around two-thirds the girth of the snake. For example, if your snake is 3 centimeters in diameter, a rodent with a diameter of 2 centimeters is suitable. It is crucial for the first few meals to be successfully digested without any regurgitation. Once the snake establishes a regular feeding routine, you can gradually increase the size of the prey to slightly larger than the snake’s girth.

3. After ensuring that the snake has adjusted to feeding, I proceed with treating them for internal parasites. I administer fenbendazole at a dosage of 50-100 milligrams per kilogram of the snake’s body mass.

4. Following parasite treatment, it’s essential to reestablish the snake’s feeding pattern. Most snakes will continue to feed without much difficulty, but some may require assistance. I use a water-soluble probiotic containing enzymes, vitamins, and minerals to stimulate their feeding response. This probiotic is added to the snake’s water daily for around 10 days.

5. Finally, establish a consistent weekly feeding routine for the snake, ensuring their overall health and optimal condition for breeding.

Brummation, a state of torpor or inactivity associated with prolonged periods of low temperature, is a crucial factor in the breeding process for these species. Properly and thoughtfully cooling the snakes is essential. Here is a guide to brummation:

Before reducing temperatures, the snakes must be prepared for several months of low temperatures without food. Starting in September, females should be fed every 5-7 days with two rodents of similar girth as the snake. Males require less energy reserve and can be fed a single prey item every 7-10 days. By the end of October, all feeding should cease. Over the next two weeks, the snake should digest its last meal and eliminate waste before temperatures drop below the normal range of 86-88°F (30-31°C). While Eryx jaculus can breed after being cooled down to temperatures as high as 52-56°F (11-13°C), Eryx miliaris and Eryx tataricus need the lower temperatures.

Living in southeastern England, where winter temperatures consistently fall below the required range for brummation, I find it most convenient to place the snakes in an area with natural outdoor temperatures. I use low heat sources controlled by a pulse-proportional thermostat in a large display freezer. The sensor is positioned in the middle of the freezer. This arrangement ensures that the top half of the unit remains warmer than the bottom half, which is beneficial when accommodating multiple species with varying temperature requirements. I house my Eryx jaculus in the top half and Eryx miliaris, as well as Eryx tataricus, in the bottom half. Those in warmer climates may need to invest in a controlled refrigeration system, such as a wine chiller with a built-in thermostat for precise temperature control.

During the low-temperature period… (Continuation of the passage is not available)
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Ihab Salloum