Ihab Salloum[ad_1]
In the year 1995, I embarked on a journey to Namibia alongside Zimbabwe’s National Freshwater Angling team. The purpose was to partake in a tournament against the teams from Namibia and South Africa. Namibia had gained independence only five years prior and had recently acquired the southern port region of Walvis Bay from South Africa, making it a complete country.
We flew into the capital city of Windhoek from Harare, Zimbabwe, landing after a brief two-hour flight. To our surprise, Windhoek welcomed us with its well-developed, modern appearance. As we drove into town from the airport, it felt as if we were on the roads of South Africa. Unlike many other African capital cities that are often dirty, poorly maintained, and lacking in infrastructure, Windhoek stood out with its clean streets and efficient traffic system. This can be attributed to Namibia’s history with South Africa, as they initially occupied the country during World War I and left behind a legacy of well-maintained towns and cities.
The Namibian fishing team kindly offered to accommodate their Zimbabwean counterparts. After dropping off our luggage at various houses, we boarded a minibus and embarked on a tour of Windhoek. The city lived up to its Afrikaans name, meaning “windy corner,” as the wind blew fiercely that day. The streets were pristine and the architecture was impressive. Notably, there were modern buildings housing various South African businesses and banks. It was heartening to witness the continued business links between the two countries, as African nations often face abandonment by former colonial powers after gaining independence.
A prominent German influence could be observed in Windhoek, as several buildings and churches reflected the era of German colonization. Among them were three castles, with the most renowned being Alte Feste, translating to “Old Fortress.” This castle served as the residence for German occupying forces during the initial building of Windhoek in 1890.
Growing up in Zimbabwe, I had heard much about the Namibian War of Independence and the racial conflict between black Namibians and the white South African army. Namibia was notorious for its racial intolerance, and we were led to believe that white people were at risk when visiting the country. However, our visit shattered these misconceptions, as we witnessed a harmonious blend of cultures and remarkable tolerance among Namibians. As visitors, we struggled to understand what had sparked the war in the first place. The white Namibians we encountered never identified themselves as South African, and none of them had participated in the war. It was a humbling experience that exposed the fallibility of youthful assumptions and the power of media influence.
While driving through Windhoek, we traversed a street ironically named Robert Mugabe Way. The Namibians informed us that this name was a token of gratitude to the Zimbabwean president for his support during Namibia’s war of independence. Sam Nujoma, the first President of Namibia, also shared a close friendship with Mugabe. We passed by the President’s house, a grand colonial-style building enclosed by a fence. This contrasted starkly with Mugabe, as his fears of his own people led him to reside behind a towering ten-foot wall and prohibit traffic outside his house between 6 pm and 6 am.
That evening, we gathered at the manager’s house of the Namibian team for a braaivleis, which is South African slang for a barbecue. The following morning, after a hearty breakfast, we embarked on a journey to the coastal town of Swakopmund, Namibia’s second-largest city. Our route took us through the magnificent Namib Desert, believed to be the oldest desert in the world, with an estimated age of 80 million years. With an annual average rainfall of a mere 10 mm (0.25 inches) and scarce vegetation, the Namib Desert displayed endless golden sands stretching towards the horizon. The contrast between the golden sand and the azure sky was nothing short of breathtaking. Stopping the car on the deserted highway felt surreal, as we found ourselves to be the sole signs of life in this vast desert. In that moment, the overwhelming power of nature humbled us, highlighting our insignificance in the face of such vastness.
Within the Namib Desert lies Dune Number Seven, the world’s largest sand dune, towering at a height of almost 390 meters (1,256 feet). Although some of us attempted to climb a few dunes, the task proved arduous due to the exhaustion brought upon by walking through sand. Dune Number Seven finds its home in Sossusvlei, an area known for a range of sand dunes situated in clay terrain. On rare occasions when there is significant rainfall, the water fills the vlei pans, leading to a stunning turquoise-colored sight. The dense clay soils prevent any water filtration, enabling hardy vegetation to thrive around these dunes. Despite the dunes’ allure, the lack of tourist developments has preserved the area’s natural beauty. Visitors can explore the dunes with tour parties, but there are no hotels or modern conveniences nearby.
Our journey to Swakopmund lasted approximately five hours and left an indelible visual impact. The town seemed to arise from the desert like a mirage, exuding a classic charm that transported us to Europe within Africa. Beyond the town loomed the Atlantic Ocean, enhancing the town’s otherworldly atmosphere. German influence permeated Swakopmund, not only evident in its architecture but also in the widespread use of the German language and the availability of Bavarian cuisine and beer in the local restaurants. The townspeople represented a fascinating mix of fishermen, safari operators, miners, various African ethnicities, and descendants of the early German settlers.
Swakopmund boasted numerous bars, restaurants, theaters, and even a casino. During South Africa’s white minority rule, gambling was prohibited, leading many South Africans to venture to Swakopmund, which is in close proximity to Walvis Bay, to satisfy their gambling desires. In addition to the awe-inspiring sand dunes, Swakopmund showcased immense salt dunes. Some of the roads along the seafront were constructed with salt, which seemed inconceivable due to their dark gray color resembling tar. My husband dared me to taste the road, but I couldn’t gather the courage to do so. However, I did learn that when wet, these salt roads can be treacherous.
Witnessing the sunrise and sunset in Swakopmund was a magnificent experience. As the sun set, the sand dunes transformed into a deep shade of red, creating a captivating sight. The light seemed to radiate through the air, reflecting off the sand. The chilling Atlantic Ocean contributed to a mist that rolled over the town, adding to its ethereal ambiance.
[ad_2]
